Buenos Aires at night – Bars and Nightclubs

People of all ages that live in Buenos Aires think that this city has the longest nights in the world. This is because there is a part of the city that wakes up when the day is getting dark.

Young people have always had different options to have fun from the beginning of the night till dawn. A few years ago, these places have begun to focus in one particular neighborhood in Buenos Aires, and the chosen one has been Palermo.

Today we will make a tour through this neighborhood, the favorite for the people who visit Buenos Aires, indicating exclusively where we have to go if we are looking for a place to have fun with friends.

Bars and clubs in Buenos Aires


TOP # 5 – Plaza Serrano

Located in Serrano St. and Honduras St., Plaza Serrano’s main characteristic is that it offers a wide variety of options during the day and the night. In the streets that surround this Park, people that like to sightsee during the day will find clothing stores and many others exclusive decoration and design stores. On the park, during the afternoon, there is a fair built where you can buy different handmade products in a good price. In this occasion, however, we will focus in the wide variety of bares and restaurants located in the streets around Plaza Serrano. This places offer food during the day, but also remains open till late at night offering young people the best drinks and the best music.

Here there is a list with the 5 most popular places in Plaza Serrano:

# 1 – Tazz

Located in 1556 Serrano St. besides having a wide variety of the best drinks, Tazz also has pool tables to have fun among friends listening to the best pop music. This place, like the others located around the park, has tables inside and outside the bar for those who like to spend time outdoors with friends.

# 2 – Brujas

Located in 1640 Borges St., Brujas offers not only the option of having something to drink with friends but also enjoying a good meal. At midnight, Brujas open the dance floor with the most popular latin music.


# 3 – Club Serrano

Located in 1551 Serrano St., Club Serrano opens very early in the morning to offer a great breakfast service and remains open offering a nice environment in each moment of the day. It has a first floor with a beautiful deck and an open terrace to enjoy not only a wide variety of food and drinks, but also the best live music.

# 4 – Utopía

Open everyday from the afternoon till 2 am, Utopia is located in 1590 Serrano St. This is one of the most popular bars in Plaza Serrano. It has a great menu and a wide variety of drinks.


# 5 – Crónico

Located in 1646 Borges St., Cronico is the most popular and antique bar in Plaza Serrano. This bar offers different kinds of food and drinks. Besides, it’s popular for transmitting the most important sport events.

TOP # 10 – The best discos

In Palermo, we will not only find the best bars, but also de most popular discotheques in the city. Find below a list with the 10 main places to go dancing in Buenos Aires.
# 1 Pacha

Located face to the river in Costanera Rafael Obligado Av. and La Pampa St., Pacha is the most important disco in Buenos Aires. With a great decoration, the best illumination system and a great quality of sound, this disco offers the best techno, trance and house music guided by the best national and international djs.


# 2 Kika Club

Located in 5339 Honduras St., Kika Club opens from Tuesday to Sunday with rock, Pop and Dance music. It also has the best variety of national and international drinks.
# 3 Jet

From 23 hs, on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays the best option is going to one of the most exclusive discos in Buenos Aires. The access to Jet is only allowed with prior reservation. With a modern decoration and the best sound quality Jet offers the best techno and house music guide by the national and international djs. Located in 4801 Rafael Obligado Av.
# 4 Tequila

Located also in Costanera, Tequila is one of the most exclusive discos in the city.

Located in 6211 Rafael Obligado Av., the access is only allowed with prior invitations. This place is ideal for people that enjoy house music. Tequila offers as well the best national and international drinks.
# 5 Esperanto

Located in 1625 Juan B. Justo, from 22 hs Esperanto opens for those guests who want to have dinner before dancing with the best latin music. Esperanto is also popular for being the favorite disco of the TV celebrities of Argentina.
# 6 The Roxy Live

Located in 5542 Niceto Vega Av, The Roxy Live is the best option for people that enjoy rock n roll. This place opens at 23 hs with live shows of national rock bands and then continues with the best rock music of all times.

# 7 INK

Located in 5635 Niceto Vega Av., INK Offers the best techno music, in this place with modern decoration and high tech sound. From 22 hs, INK offers dinner and live shows before opening the dance floor.

# 8 Rose Bar

Located in 5445 Honduras St., Rose Bar opens on Thursdays from 19 to 2 hs and Fridays and Sundays from 22 hs to 6 hs. This place offers dinner service for its guests before opening the dance floor with the best pop, dance and latin music.


# 9 Brook

Brook is one of the newest discos in Buenos Aires. On Fridays and Saturdays from 22 hs, Brook offers dinner and live shows before opening the dance floor. This place is characterized for having a big terrace for people that enjoy spending time outdoors listening to the best latin music. Located in 1574 Juan B. Justo Av.
# 10 Groove

 Located in 4389 Santa Fe Av., Groove is open on Fridays and Saturdays. On Fridays it offers latin music and on Saturdays the best national and international rock and roll. For those who enjoy live music, on Saturdays Groove offers concerts of the most famous national bands.

Where to? Time to shop in Buenos Aires!

When we are in a different city, we can’t help seeing those things, like clothing, electronics or local products that we wouldn’t be able to buy in our city. When we want to shop for something exclusive or unique, a souvenir or something we wouldn’t get in our city is really important to know where to go. Today we will make a list with those places we can go to if we want to do some shopping.

Alto Palermo Shopping Center

We can find one of the most popular malls in Buenos Aires in Palermo. Located in 3253 Santa Fe Av., Alto Palermo Shopping Center has over 150 stores where we can get from clothing and accessories till the latest in electronics. This mall also has a wide variety of national and international restaurants. Around this mall, there are also other stores where we can buy all kinds or products in a reasonable price.

Alto Palermo Shopping

Alto Palermo Shopping on Santa Fe Ave.


Abasto Shopping

Located in 3247 Corrientes Av., Abasto Shopping has a wide variety of options for the whole family. There we will not only find the best brands in clothing and electronics but also different kinds of attractions for people all ages. Among them we will find Neverland, one of the main attractions for kids, it has a variety of the funniest electronic games. In Abasto Shopping we can also find “El museo de los niños” (the kids museum) where the whole family can enjoy with educative and didactic activities.

Abasto Shopping

Abasto Shopping on Corrientes Ave.


Plaza Armenia

Around Armenia Park in Palermo, we can find the best bars and restaurants to enjoy some time with family and friends. There we will also find different kinds of stores to buy clothing and accessories, some of them are characterized for selling only exclusive products.

Armenia Square Shopping

Armenia Square Shopping in Style


Florida Street

Located downtown, we will find one of the most famous streets in Buenos Aires, Florida Av. There we will find a wide variety of all kinds of stores. This street is ideal to spend some time outdoor while we get all kinds of national and international products.

In this street, we will also enjoy different kinds of shows performed by local street artists.

Florida Street Shopping

Florida Street Shopping


Gallerias Pacifico

Located in 737 Florida Av., GaleriasPacifico is one of the most traditional malls in Buenos Aires. We will have not only the chance to buy in the best stores, or choose among a wide variety of restaurants but also enjoy with the beauty of the building. Its decoration has beautiful murals painted by famous artists and a great domed structure in the center. From Monday to Friday, Galerias Pacifico offers guided visits for those people who want to know the history of the building.

Galerias Pacifico Shopping

Galerias Pacifico Shopping

So now you know, jump into the shopping world of Buenos Aires In Baires Apartments we give you all the best tips so you can get the most out of our city!

Things you MUST do once you are in Buenos Aires

When we visit a city for the first time, we plan our trip upon the places that we have to visit. However, in this occasion we offer a different kind of list. A list with those things that we have to do, traditional of Buenos Aires and which are not specific places to visit but new experiences to live.

Drink “mate”

Drinking “mate” is something traditional in Argentina and without a doubt we should try it if we visit the country. There are different ways to do it, because nowadays “mate” is a drink offered in some of the most popular bars in Buenos Aires and as traditional as coffee or tea.

However, drinking “mate” isn’t something that we have to do exclusively in a bar. We can buy our own “mate kit” in a grocery or a souvenir store and drink mates outdoors as most of Argentinean do.

Mate Buenos Aires

Visit a trade fair

Trade fairs in Buenos Aires are held exclusively during the weekends in different parks of the city. There are different booths in the fairs where we can buy a wide variety of handcrafted products, antiques and even clothing in a very reasonable price. There, you can also enjoy different shows performed in the streets with traditional music and dancing.

Among the most important trade fairs in the city we find the one located in a park called Gral. Manuel Belgrano in Belgrano (Juramento Av. and Vuelta de Obligado, a  block away from Cabildo Av.). On Sundays, in San Telmo, the trade fair is held around Dorrego Park (Defensa St. and Humberto Primo St.).

Ferias en Buenos Aires


Taste traditional food

Buenos Aires offers a wide variety of dishes inspired in international food, but also there are some traditional dishes that we should try if we are in Buenos Aires. It’s not important if we go to the best restaurant in the city or the closest one in the neighborhood we’re staying, roast meat “asado” is a specialty in Argentine and we not only should try it, we will not be able to forget it.

Another traditional Argentinean meal is “empanadas” which are not only delicious but also affordable and ideal when we want to have a quick lunch before continuing our tour through the city.

Probar la carne argentina

Visit a “milonga”

Known as the Argentinean typical dance, Tango is considerate an art in the whole world. In San Telmo neighborhood, we can find the oldest bars of the city, also known as “milongas”, where we can have something to drink while we enjoy the music and the dancing. In some of these places we can also take classes for those people who want to take the experience to the maximum.

Tango y Milonga

Argentinean passion for football

Argentinean people have always been fans of many sports, but it’s definitely football the one that awakes the passion. People who visit the country have the chance to visit the stadiums, where the best football players started their careers. For those who wish to take the experience to the maximum, going to a football match is ideal. You will not only enjoy a sporting event but also share a true Argentinean passion.

Futbol argentino

What else do you think we are missing here? You are welcome to share your suggestions with the rest of the readers!

Summer has arrived to Buenos Aires!

Summer in Buenos Aires

There´s one season of the year in which there is a special air about Buenos Aires, and that season is summer. The hustle and bustle usually found in the city transforms during these warmer months, slowing down and leaving the city with a more relaxed feel about it.

You can already notice it in the streets, where, while still fairly crowded, the numbers of passer-bys have started to drop. Many of the city´s residents flock to nearby coastal towns to take a break from work and enjoy the beautiful beaches, while many others opt to stay and take advantage of what the country´s capital has to offer, despite the soaring heat that will be felt between December and March.

The woodlands in Palermo (found in Av. Libertador and Av. Sarmiento) are the most popular destinations at this time of year. During this peak season, the woods are filled with young people having picnics, people in their deck chairs sharing mate with their friends or basking in the sun, teenagers exercising on skates or bikes, and couples of all ages taking a walk amongst the shadows cast by the variety of trees that make up this beautiful landscape.

Typical Argentinean beverage mate is a tea usually served hot, but still continues to be a popular drink despite the warm weather. It is possible to find a cold version called tereré, also a mixture of fruit juices that, when combined with the mate herb, gives it a very distinctive taste and refreshing quality.

To accompany these beverages, Argentineans prefer sweet, flour-based snacks such as pastries, churros (fried dough rolls usually filled with a sweet custard or cream and sprinkled with sugar) or cubanitos (hard dough rolls filled with custard cream). Those that prefer a more salty taste opt for biscochos de grasa (cupcakes made typically from the fat of cows).

The country´s population is made up of a high percentage of descendants of Italian immigrants that arrived between 1880 and 1910. This is important when you picture summer in these parts and their inherited love for ice cream.  Many companies that produce it come from these origins and have adapted to local tastes by offering a variety of flavours and portions a lot larger than those normally served on the ‘old continent’.

At night you can enjoy a picada with a cold beer (as is the custom) in one of the many and diverse eateries to be found. They are usually presented on a wooden board, served with a variety of cheeses (Pategrás and Gouda being the most popular) and accompanied by an array of sausages such as salmines and chorizos secos. The plate is finished off with green or black olives, salted or shelled peanuts and slices of bread. This option doesn´t replace dinner, but rather comes before it. Taken from its name, picar (to nibble) or picotear (to peck at), it means to nibble on something small in the same way a bird would, reducing your appetite while you wait for the main meal which will fully satisfy your hunger.

To walk through the city during its most peaceful season really is a joy to behold. Without being distracted by hordes of people filling the streets, you can fully appreciate it´s impressive European-style architecture, allowing you to relax, contemplate and catch a glimpse into the slower paced lifestyle of its inhabitants, if only for a few minutes. You can always start to look for somewhere a bit busier if you want (remember than Buenos Aires doesn´t stop just because a lot of people have left to enjoy their holidays), while those who find themselves in quieter surroundings can adapt to see whatever they want on any given day.  Undoubtedly a great opportunity to get to know another side of this metropolis.

Dinner time! Top 10 restaurants review

Among the things we have to do when we visit a foreign country is to try some typical food, those tastes which make this place out-standing. Today we will present you a top 10 with the most famous restaurants and the chosen ones when we want to enjoy the culinary specialties that Buenos Aires has to offer.

# 1 Parolaccia Puerto Madero

Parolaccia Puerto Madero
Parolaccia Puerto Madero

Located in the exclusive Puerto Madero. A. M. de Justo 276. La Parolaccia, specialized in Italian food, offers a wide variety of gourmet dishes prepared with fresh pasta and sea food. Besides an excellent customer service, this restaurant offers an spectacular view of the river.

Website: www.laparolaccia.com

# 2 Las Cabras

Las Cabras
Las Cabras

Located in Palermo we will find one of the best options to try Argentinean meat. Located in Fitz Roy 1975, Las Cabras offers a wide variety of dishes prepared with fresh vegetables to go with the best grilled meat.

With a simple decoration and a great quality of attention, this restaurant is ideal to try typical Argentinean dishes in a good price.

 

 # 3 La cabrera

La Cabrera
La Cabrera

Located in Palermo Soho, Cabrera 5099. La Cabrera honors the national pride with the most exquisites cuts of Argentinean meat with classic and innovated side dishes. This restaurant is outlined for the abundance of the dishes and the excellence in the attention that is offered to its customers.

Website: www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar

 

# 4 Tegui

Tegui Restaurant
Tegui Restaurant

The most important characteristic of Tegui is that it’s an indoor restaurant, which from the outside does not allow to imagine the immensity and beautiful decoration of the place. The menu offers the chance to try different dishes, all of them of excellent quality and prepared with a lot of creativity. Located in Costa Rica 5852, Tegui is an ideal restaurant for couples who wish to spend and unforgettable gourmet experience.

Website: www.tegui.com.ar

 

# 5 Chila

Chila Restaurant
Chila Restaurant

Located in Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160, Chila offers to its customers a gourmet experience inspired by the best Argentinean products of the season. To preserve the excellence of the dishes, this restaurant has a changing and dynamic menu. It also has a wide variety of wines to its customers to have the chance to try the best national and international creations. Beside the high level of attention and decoration, this restaurant is located in Puerto Madero, one of the most beautiful and exclusive neighborhoods in Buenos Aires.

Website: www.chilaweb.com.ar

 

# 6 Sucre

Restaurant Sucre
Restaurant Sucre

Located in Belgrano, Sucre offers the best contemporary and international food created by the reinterpretation of different cuisines like the Peruvian, the Spanish, the Japanese and the Italian among others. It also has a wine cellar with a wide variety of national and international wines. What’s more it has a bar to enjoy a selection of drinks and appetizers. This luxury restaurant is located in Sucre 676.

Website: www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar

 

# 7 Pura Tierra

Pura Tierra Restaurant
Pura Tierra Restaurant

Located in Belgrano neighborhood, 3 de Febrero 1167. Pura Tierra utilizes the best Argentinean products to prepared their dishes. This restaurant has a season menu and a tasting menu, which proposes an 8 steps tour through the best dishes prepared with the best local and regional products.

Website: www.puratierra.com.ar

 

#8 La Bourgogne

La Burgogne Restaurant
La Burgogne Restaurant

Located in Ayacucho 2027, in Recoleta. La Bourgogne is considered the best French food restaurant in Buenos Aires. It has a big salon, the best personalized attention and the most exquisite dishes to offer its customers an unforgettable gourmet experience.

Sitio oficial: www.alvearpalace.com/v3/la-bourgogne.php

 

#9 Oviedo (Recoleta)

Oviedo Restaurant
Oviedo Restaurant

Located in Beruti 2602, Oviedo is a restaurant specialized in seafood dishes. It’s the best option for people who enjoy this kind of food. This restaurant has a wide and comfortable salon besides a great quality of attention.

Web: www.oviedoresto.com.ar

 

#10 Duhau Restaurante 

Duhau Restaurante
Duhau Restaurante

Located in Av. Alvear 1661 the main characteristic of Duhau Restaurante y Vinoteca is the amazing decoration. This restaurant has a menu with a great variety of dishes and the best attention. It also has a winery and a cheese room with over 45 kinds of cheese.

Web: http://buenosaires.park.hyatt.com.ar/es/hotel/dining/DuhauRestauranteandVinoteca.html

Ypu can´t miss any of these restaurants, and then, of course, write back to us to let us know what you think of them!

2-day Buenos aires guide for art lovers

For art lovers, we offer a 2 day schedule to enjoy from the different artistic expressions located in different spots of the city. With this guide we propose a tour through the art in Buenos Aires, bearing in mind all the important information to consider.

Day 1

– 09:30

We’ll start our tour in the National museum of fine arts (Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes) located in 1473 Libertador Av.

Inaugurated in 1932, the museum exhibits over 1500 pieces of national and international artists. It also has temporary exhibitions that can be of artists recognized in the whole world or of new artists.

National Museum of Bellas Artes

The National Museum of Fine Arts, an icon in the city landscape

After enjoying the exquisite art that the National Museum of fine arts has to offer we can continue our day with a little bit of Latin-American art, but not without having lunch first.

- 12:00 hs.

On our way to the Latinamerican Art Museum (Museo Nacional de Arte Latinoamericano - MALBA), located on the street called Pres. Figueroa Alcorta, we will find magnificent culinary options for all the tastes.

For gourmet food lovers, you can enjoy of a wonderful lunch in Red Point. In this restaurant, there are many specialties prepared with seafood or the best Argentinean meat.

Located a few meters away from Red Point, you’ll find Dashi, a restaurant that offers the most traditional Japanese food.

Located next to the museum we’ll find Café des Arts. This French restaurant offers international dishes in the finest area and the best personalized attention.

- 14:00 hs

We start put visit to the Latinamerican Art Museum (MALBA) located in 3415 Pres. Figueroa Alcorta Av.  

MALBA Museum

MALBA – Latin American Art Museum

The MALBA is dedicated to latinamerican art of the twentieth century. At present it exhibits paintings, sculptures, drawings, illustrations, collages, photographs and installations of latinamerican artists,

Leaving the museum, after finishing out first day surrounded by art, we can enjoy the parks located around the museum, where we can spend a beautiful time outdoors. There we will find the Floralis Genérica, a metallic sculpture located in Plaza de las Naciones Unidas.

Day 2

- 10:00 hs

Having to take in consideration the opening hour of the museums un Buenos Aires, we will start our second day taking a walk through one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in Buenos Aires called Puerto Madero, which stands out for its beautiful and modern architecture.

Among the spots of Puerto Madero that we can’t miss we find “el Puente de la Mujer” (The Brigde of the woman), built in 1998 and the central Market, located in Pierina Dealessi and Macacha Guemes. There we will have different options such as fast food, pastries, home-made ice-cream, candles, pottery and even accessories of design.

- 12:00 hs

- Fortabat Art Collection

Located in 141 Olga Cossettini St., it was built by Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat. This ultra modern space located in Puerto Madero, exhibits the Fortabat family’s private collection, which includes pieces of national and international artists such as Salvador Dalí and Andy Warhol.

Fortabat Art Collection

Fortabat Art Collection

- 15:00 hs

At only 20 minutes by car, the next stop in out tour will be the Museum of decorative art located in 1902 Libertador Av.

Built in 1937, the museum is a symbol of the french influence in Buenos Aires. By walking through the residence, we can appreciate the private collection of Josefina de Alvear and her husband Matías Errázuriz Ortúzar, whose families had great influence in the political matters of the country.

Decorative Art Museum

Decorative Art Museum

This way we finish our tour through the most important museums of Buenos Aires, the ones you can’t miss if you’re an art lover.

Squares in Argentina. Places to meet and gossip

When you walk through the towns of Argentina it is inevitable that at some point you will come across a square. Our cities are born and built around them. Nearby are schools, churches, the town hall… but there are others, especially those far from the town centres, that rely upon the personalities and stories of those who visit them.

I don’t think I know anyone who doesn’t have a strong childhood memory of being at one. This is because Argentineans can find green spaces at squares, as well as various games for kids to enjoy. Hammocks, slides, seesaws, carrousels, all brightly painted and their sounds inviting kids to come and play.

Families gather at them on Sundays and during the summer holidays. Women with their deckchairs and mate, the little ones with their footballs and, if there´s enough space, a kite. There, friendships are made that last forever. But these places don´t only belong to childhood. During your teens they are usually the scene for flirting and your first kiss, and where you go if you want to share secrets with your friends. In this sense it becomes a space somewhere between public and private, because as time passes it continues being both, but at the same time at one with all its memories.

Squares in Argentina

The green spaces and the blue sky are a beautiful sight of Buenos Aires

And just as the seasons pass by in front of the squares, so does life. You go from a child having fun playing games, to a teenager being up to no good, to adulthood and bringing other kids to experience the magic you felt when you were young. (Most likely that when no one´s looking we´ll give into temptation and climb back into the hammock to feel like we´re flying again).

These places reflect the spirit of the community that surrounds them. Sometimes they are taken care of by their neighbours, who plant flowers and paint games or the walls with creative and colourful images. They are the home of various celebrations such as carnivals, championship victory parades, town anniversaries, cultural events and national holidays, amongst others.

By not being designed for tourists, but rather for the good of the community, it is where ´local colour’ is most genuine and evident.

Some of them include:

  • Parque Las Heras (Palermo), surrounded by the streets of General Las Heras, Coronel Díaz, Jerónimo Salguero and Juncal.
  • Plaza Jardín de los maestros (Recoleta) found between Marcelo T. de Alvear, Pizzurno and Paraguay.
  • Plaza Francisco Canaro, situated in Cochabamba between Combate de los pozos and Sarandí. It is home to murales of the celebrated Patoruzú and is open from 8am until 9am in the summer.
  • Plaza Conesa (Quilmes), surrounded by the streets of Conesa, Moreno, Lavalle and Colón.
  • Plaza Ameghino in Parque Rivadavia, surrounded by Av. Rivadavia, Doblas, Beauchef and Rosario.

These probably don´t appear in tourist guides like the famous Plaza de Mayo or Plaza Congreso, with their towering monuments and statues of important figures of the country´s past. However they are spaces that show off the part of Latin American culture that perhaps goes unnoticed by those who visit them regularly. What unforgettable memories will they leave you with?

A Guide to Buenos Aires: How to get around

Buenos Aires offers a wealth of memorable experiences for visitors.  However, with so much to see and do, it can be a challenge to figure out just how to spend your time here.  Of course there is no one “best” way to experience Buenos Aires, and different people will enjoy different aspects of this immense city.  With this in mind, we’d like to present a series of guides offering practical information that will help ensure your stay in Buenos Aires goes smoothly, no matter your reason for visiting.  Combined with the great sites we’ve highlighted in this blog, we hope this information we’ll help you get the most out of your stay.  So enjoy!  And for any accomadations needs you may have, please check out our main website.

Buenos Aires is huge.  Stretching from the banks of the Rio de la Plata to Pampas of Argentina’s interior, the federal capital officially takes up 78.5 square miles but includes a metropolitan area of near 4800 square miles.  To explore this entire territory would be an arduous task and an unnecessary one.  The most famous barrios found nearest the Rio de la Plata, from La Boca in the south to Belgrano in the north, contain all of the most popular tourist destinations.  However, even when you limit Buenos Aires to these barrios, you still need to know how to get around.  Therefore, we offer this guide for transportation around the city.

Walking

While not the most glamourous or speediest form of travel, walking is often the most enjoyable way to discover the city.  Buenos Aires is a wonderful walking city and most of its streets are on a grid system, making navigation simple.  Walking is also the best way to get a true feel for the city and a great way to stumble upon stores and restaurants you may not have noticed otherwise.  Furthermore, you get an up close view of Buenos Aires’s mix of architectural styles that adorn many of the buildings lining the larger avenues.  Due to Buenos Aires size, however, walking may not always be convenient; luckily, numerous other transportation options exist if your destination is outside of walking range.

Subte

Buenos Aires boasts South America’s oldest subway system, and today it remains one of the quickest and simplest ways to move through the city.  Thousands of porteños depend on the subte to bring them to and from work everyday.  Trains are generally punctual and run from 5Am to 10PM Monday through Saturday and 8AM to 10PM Sundays.  Currently a oneway ticket costs $2.50 Ar., which can be purchased at a boleteria next to the subway’s turnstiles.  Not surprisingly, trains tend to fill up during rush hours in the morning and evening.  If you desire to avoid cramped travel it may be best to avoid taking the subte during these hours.

The subte has 6 lines: A, B, C, D, E , and H.  Lines A, E, B, and D start in Downtown, next to Plaza de Mayo, and spread apart as they move west into the metropolitan area.  Lines C and H run perpendicular (north-south) and allow passengers to connect to the other lines without traveling all the way to Downtown.

Colectivos

Step foot on any street in Buenos Aires and you will notice dozens of numbered buses carrying passengers all over the city.  Since buses cover the entire city they are the most popular form of transportation for porteños and are incredibly inexpensive.  However, colectivos require some knowledge of the city’s layout and at least a general understanding of a few bus routes.  Travelers may experience some initial difficulty if they are unsure of where they are going or the particular bus route to use.  If you plan on using Buenos Aires’s bus system it’s worth picking up a “Guia T”.  This pocket-sized booklet contains maps of the city broken down into grids and lists of the corresponding bus routes between each numbered grid.  At certain bus stops you can find a list of the route’s stops.  They are often written underneath the sign that displays the bus’s number.

Perhaps the most inconvient aspect of colectivos is that, unless you have a sube card, each bus requires that you pay for your fair in coins.  Once you enter a bus, you indicate your destination to the driver (or the corresponding price to this destination) and then insert coins into a machine behind the driver.  While the fair is extremely cheap (the average fair at this moment is around $1.25 Ar.) it may take a traveler a few purchases in Argentina before they have enough change to use for the bus.  However, once you have change and a general knowledge of the layout of the city, colectivos are a great way to travel.  Not only are they efficient and reliable but you get superb views of the city’s many barrios as you travel to your destination.

Taxis

Taxis are almost as ubiquitous as colectivos on the streets of Buenos Aires.  Today all cabs are black and yellow and are required to have a meter.  They are simple to wave down and you can also order one from your phone.  While fares are relatively inexpensive, compared to the low rates of the subte and colectivos they are the most expensive form of travel in Buenos Aires.  However, with taxis you never have to contend with the tight squeezes of rush hour that can occur in both colectivos and the subte.  When hailing a taxi, look for an illuminated “LIBRE” sign located on the front windshield that indicates the cab is empty and available for pick up.

Some more help

If you are unsure how to arrive at any destination in Buenos Aires a great resource to use is the city’s website mapa.buenosaires.gov.ar.  By clicking on the “Como Llegar” tab, you are able to enter your current location and the address or location you want to travel to.  The map will then provide a number of travel options including subte lines (if any subte stops are near) and bus numbers, listing them in order of fastest to slowest with an estimated time of how long each will take.

 

The Charm of Old San Telmo

Just south of Plaza de Mayo and la Casa Rosada you’ll find the cobblestone streets of San Telmo.  Life moves a little slower in this section of Buenos Aires, especially when compared to the bustling avenues of Palermo or Recoleta.  Fewer cars traverse up and down the small streets and the crowds of tourists or business people that can populate the sidewalks and cafes around central Buenos Aires thin out as you enter this barrio.  As the oldest neighborhood of the city, San Telmo has witnessed countless transitions as Buenos Aires has grown over the years.  The worn grandeur and eclectic architecture of San Telmo’s buildings reflects its long history, a history that has endowed this barrio with a character distinct from any other section of Buenos Aires.

Once the original industrial section of Buenos Aires, the area came to support the city’s growing middle class as well as its aristocratic elites in the 1800s.  These wealthy porteños lived in lavish mansions built alongside structures dating back to the city’s colonial era.  However, the landscape of San Telmo was forever changed when a yellow fever epidemic struck Buenos Aires near the end of the 19th century.  Desperate to escape the disease, the majority of San Telmo’s residents fled their homes and resettled in the northern part of Buenos Aires in what would become Recoleta or Barrio Norte.

In their exodus, the former inhabitants of San Telmo abandoned hundreds of residences and mansions.  A number of these structures were torn down to make parks while others became tenant homes, known as conventillos, that housed the multitude of immigrants flooding into Buenos Aires from Europe during this period.  Within a few years San Telmo had transformed from the well-to-do residential center of Buenos Aires to a crowded multinational immigrant community.  This community would have a major impact on the city as well as porteño culture, building such structures as the Russian Orthodox church, with its iconic onion dome spires, and giving birth to Tango.  Even today most porteños cite the southern barrios of San Telmo and La Boca as the birthplace of their culture.

San Telmo fell into a state of decline as the upper classes of Buenos Aires continued to settle elsewhere in the city.  However, as early as the 1960s a number of local artist began to take an interest in the historic barrio.  The formation of artist guilds during this period paved the way for the recent rejuvenation of San Telmo as the center of Buenos Aires’s arts scene.  Numerous galleries now fill what were once defiled mansions built centuries ago, helping to bring international attention to San Telmo’s thriving contemporary arts.

In addition to the museums, art spaces, and historic churches found within its domain, San Telmo is also know for its weekly fair.  La Feria de San Telmo takes place every Sunday from morning till mid afternoon bringing thousands to wander up and down avenida Defensa, where they admire the wide variety of items for sell.  Known in particular for the rich selection of antiques, the San Telmo fair also features street performers, food vendors, and tango displays ensuring a great time whether you decide to buy anything or not.

Past the end of the fair, near the termination of avenida Defensa, sits Lezama park, one of the open spaces created by the demolitions that took place after the yellow fever epidemic.  Its design was the work of legendary urban planner Carlos Thays–the same designer behind the Botanical Gardens and many of Palermo’s parks. However, like most of San Telmo, Lezama park’s history goes back much further. Most historians agree that it was on one of Lezama’s hills that the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Mendoza first landed in 1536 and founded Buenos Aires.

The rich history of San Telmo can be felt at every turn in this enchanting barrio.

Here at Baires Apartments, we have a number of apartment rentals in the San Telmo area. Please visit the San Telmo link on the side of this page to view our San Telmo apartment listings.

 

 

The Parks of Palermo

Los Bosques de Palermo

The barrio of Palermo is popular for more than just restaurants, chic living, and nightlife.  It also contains the most green space of any barrio in Buenos Aires.  Acres of parks complete with lakes, gardens and even a zoo allow the residents of Palermo to escape the noise and bustle of the big city without leaving their neighborhood.

Sunny afternoons and weekends bring people in droves to the parks, known as Los Bosques de Palermo.  Here they relax in the sun sipping mate, rollerblade or bike along the park’s paved streets, or rent a paddleboat andcruise one of the small lakes.  Palermo’s park system extends from Avenida Santa Fe northeast following Avenida Sarmiento towards Jorge Newbery Airport and the Rio de la Plata river.  The section of parks nearest the airport features a concentration of sport facilities including the Hipodromo, where throughout the year horses race in front of a grandstand built in the late 1800s.  Polo is another passion of Buenos Aires, and Palermo is its proud home in Argentina.  Near the Hipodromo are numerous Polo fields along with a rugby stadium, golf course, and tennis courts.

Parque 3 de Febrero is the largest of the parks.  Completed in 1875 by architect Carlos Thays, its 25 hectors consist of a number of distinct parts including a few lakes, a rose garden (el rosedal) with a beautiful white bridge, Japanese gardens (jardin japones), and a planetarium.  It’s worth taking an afternoon or more to explore this peaceful space.  In fact it may become one of your favorite places to spend a few relaxing hours.

Avenida Sarmiento splits 3 de Febrero in two, and if you follow it South you’ll arrive at Plaza Italia.  Here the intersection of Sarmiento, Avenida Santa Fe and Avenida Las Heras surrounds a large monument of Giuseppe Garibaldi, the Italian general.  At the top of this intersection sits the city zoo, where for only a few pesos you can view Bueno’s Aires collection of animals from around the world.

Jardin Botánico

The botanical gardens lie in between Avenida Santa Fe and Las Heras.  Also designed by Carlos Thays, Jardin Botánico reflects the strong European sentiment that influenced the upper classes of Buenos Aires in the late 19th century.  This love for European styles, particularly the urban design and architecture of 1800s France, can be found throughout Buenos Aires, especially in Jardin Botánico.  Among the park’s ornate greenhouses and meandering garden paths stand 33 works of art placed beside arrays of meticulously maintained flora.  Not surprisingly these sculptors, monuments, and busts mimic important works of European art.  The garden even features separate sections dedicated to the particular gardening styles of Italy and France.

A little quieter than 3 de Febrero, the botanical gardens is the perfect place to read a book or contemplate René Magritte’s theories of art. All of Palermo’s parks are free except for the Jardin Japones, which costs 16 pesos to enter.

If you wish for the thrills of a big city with the peacefulness of nature near by, than Palermo is the place for you.

Visit our website for the latest info on apartment rentals throughout Palermo.

 

An example of one of the Botanical Garden's sculptures